Things are now routed through the item store :)
Element.getStorage(yourElement).get('prototype_event_registry') will provide you with a Prototype Hash instance, so you can do whatever you would do with the hash.
// to see which event types are being observed Element.getStorage(yourElement).get('prototype_event_registry').keys(); // to get array of handlers for particular event type Element.getStorage(yourElement).get('prototype_event_registry').get('click'); // to get array of all handlers Element.getStorage(yourElement).get('prototype_event_registry').values(); // etc.
Please note that this is undocumented internal data that may be changed in the future, so I will not rely on them, except, perhaps, for debugging purposes.
kangax
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